SpiceLines

After all, they’re cooked in just a little sugar and wine, and I can ration the delicious liquid in which they are poached to just a spoonful or two.

As fond as I am of Comice pears, they’re so juicy that they may collapse when poached. This doesn’t matter, of course, if you’re just making them for yourself and eating them with a spoon standing up in the kitchen. (Guilty!) In fact their superior flavor and texture makes them my top choice for poaching despite the fact that they lose their shape and every tiny bruise turns into a crater.

When beauty matters, though, the Bosc pear is a better choice. When ripe, the flesh is sweet but crisp, and when peeled, it looks almost translucent. The only problem is that its texture can be a little grainy, which makes for a somewhat less seductive dessert. Oh, the sacrifices...

(In either case, test for ripeness by pressing the neck of the pear very gently. If it gives just slightly, it is ready to be eaten or cooked.)

A few tips:

1. Look for firm unblemished fruit with stems attached. Some Boscs are short and dumpy, but if you can find the ones with long, slender necks, they will look quite elegant when peeled and poached.

2. Don’t overwhelm the pears with strong-tasting spices such as cinnamon and herbs such as rosemary. Instead, poach the fruit gently, then discard the strong seasonings and reduce the cooking liquid. This will intensify its flavor and the liquid can then be drizzled over the pears for extra taste.

By the way, it’s a good idea to corral the spices in a muslin bag or to tie them up in a piece of cheesecloth before adding them to the cooking liquid. Otherwise they will sink into the soft flesh of the pears and you will have to dig them out. Not a pretty picture..

3. If possible, poach the pears the day before you plan to serve them. Refrigerate overnight with a little of the reduced cooking liquid spooned over them. This will make them especially luscious.

Here are two recipes. The first is for pears poached in red wine with spices and orange zest. Red wine’s heartier flavor stands up well to seasonings and when reduced, the poaching liquid has a delicious peppery-cinammon-orange taste that turns nice cooked pears into a rousing dessert.

The second is for pears poached in white wine. Often recipes call for pears to be cooked with vanilla since the two flavors have a natural affinity. But here I’ve pushed the envelope a bit and cooked the pears in white wine with a sprig of rosemary and Meyer lemon slices. It’s a different, slightly savory approach to poaching pears which I find oddly addictive.

If you’d rather take the vanilla route, follow the recipe using white wine, but substitute 2 vanilla beans for the rosemary and Meyer lemon slices. Slit the beans lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the cooking liquid. Add the pods as well. You could also use a little Meyer lemon zest if you like.

The choice is yours. Both ways are delicious, even if….

Oh go ahead. Break out the chocolate. A few bittersweet shards are just perfect with pears when you’re on the austerity diet.

Pears Poached in Red Wine with Black Peppercorns, Cinnamon and Orange Zest

To serve four

Ingredients:
4 ripe, unblemished Comice or Bosc pears, stems attached
3 cups red wine
¾ cup water
¾ cup sugar
1 2-inch piece cinnamon
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 whole star anise
2 large slices fresh ginger, peeled
Zest of one orange, white pith removed

Optional garnish: 4 whole star anise

Method:
1. Peel the pears but leave the stems attached. Cut a thin slice off the bottom of any pear that cannot stand up without toppling over. Put the spices in a muslin bag or wrap in a piece of cheese cloth and set aside.
2. Combine the wine, water and sugar in a saucepan large enough to hold the pears. Bring to a boil, add the pears lying on their sides, and lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Immerse the bag of spices and the orange zest in the liquid and simmer for 30-35 minutes. Turn the pears once after 15 minutes.
3. Gently remove the pears using a slotted spoon and place them in a bowl that can comfortably hold them. Leave the orange zest and ginger in the liquid, but remove the bag of spices and discard. Boil the poaching liquid until it has been reduced to approximately 1-1/4 cups. It should be spicy tasting and slightly syrupy.
4. Let the liquid cool, then pour half of it over the pears. Refrigerate the pears and the remaining liquid overnight. Poached pears are best served cold either the next day or the one following.
5. To serve, place one pear upright in a bowl or on a plate and spoon some of the poaching liquid and cooked orange zest over it. If using star anise as a decorative garnish, soak the spice in a tablespoon of cooking liquid for a few minutes, then arrange as desired. Do not eat the star anise.

Pears Poached in White Wine with Rosemary and Meyer Lemon

To serve four

Ingredients:
4 ripe, unblemished Comice or Bosc pears, stems attached
3 cups white wine
¾ cup water
¾ cup sugar
1 large sprig fresh rosemary
1 small Meyer lemon, cut into 6 thin slices

Optional garnish: 4 small sprigs rosemary
Poached Meyer lemon slices, reserved

Method:
1. Peel the pears but leave the stems attached. Cut a thin slice off the bottom of any pear that cannot stand up without toppling over.
2. Combine the wine, water and sugar in a saucepan large enough to hold the pears. Bring to a boil, add the pears lying on their sides, and lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Add the rosemary sprig and lemon slices and simmer for 30-35 minutes. Turn the pears once after 15 minutes.
3. Gently remove the pears using a slotted spoon and place them in a bowl that can comfortably hold them. Leave the lemon slices in the poaching liquid, but discard the rosemary. Bring the liquid to a boil and reduce to about 1-1/4 cups. It should taste of rosemary and lemon, and be a bit syrupy.
4. Let the poaching liquid cool, then pour about half of it, including the lemon slices, over the pears. Refrigerate overnight. The pears are best eaten cold the next day or the one following.
5. To serve, stand a pear upright in a bowl or on a plate. Spoon some of the poaching liquid over it. Garnish, if desired, with poached lemon slices and a sprig of fresh rosemary.