SpiceLines

Aroy-D is richer tasting and less oily than the canned stuff, and, since it comes in aseptic packaging, it is shelf stable. Though the directions say that milk will last only two days after opening, I’ve kept it in the refrigerator for well over a week without spoiling. Small leftover amounts can be frozen for future use.

What else? Spices, of course. Moroccan cumin, Canadian coriander seed, Cambodian white peppercorns, and a stick of Indonesian cassia. Half a head of that lovely early garlic that I brought back from Santa Fe. Fish sauce? Vietnamese Viet Huong nuoc mam nhi (look for the three crabs on the label). Limes: Probably Florida. Thai basil? My own garden. No carbon footprint there.

Like the ingredients, the curry itself is all mixed up. Since coconut milk was to be its base, I consulted my favorite Thai cookbook, It Rains Fishes by Kasma Loha-Unchit for some tips. The trinity of white peppercorns, cumin and coriander seeds appears in all her recipes for curry paste—red, green and Massaman—but to create the end flavor I added cinnamon and the baby ginger, a combination which is distinctly inauthentic but quite delicious. Her suggestion for adding paprika to the curry for color is a great one, especially if you have to rely on a tiny bit of cayenne pepper for heat.

As Loha-Unchit observes, “A good, strong, large and heavy mortar and pestle, one that allows you to pound with vigor and twirl in grinding frenzy” is the “the one indispensable piece of equipment needed to make exceptional curry pastes.” And although the mortar and pestle I bought in Singapore many years ago is my personal favorite, the heavy Thai mortars and pestles sold by ImportFood are superb kitchen tools.

Most curries include "exotic" ingredients that are indigenous to the areas in which they have evolved. But since I was trying to cook, at least in part, from my own pantry, I made a few substitutions: Baby ginger for harder to find galangal and gkra-chai, or lesser ginger root (though you could also use mature ginger.) Lime juice for souring agents like tamarind water, lime zest instead of lime leaf, to add a whisper of citrusy bitterness to the curry. Without it, the dish could veer to the bland side with all the coconut milk and sweet squash.

And instead of whole dried red chillies which must be roasted and ground, I took a short cut, using a heaping spoonful of pure red New Mexican chile powder. It’s hot but not fiery and because it’s so fresh, it adds fruity undertones to the curry.

Don’t be tempted to skip the fish sauce: it not only adds much needed salt but also that mysterious umami taste that rounds out the flavors of the dish.

Serve this summer into fall curry with steamed basmati rice and a salad of spicy babv arugula dressed with lemon and olive oil. It’s an around-the-world trip in a mouthful.

Coconut-Curried Squash, Potatoes, and Eggplant with Baby Ginger, Red Chile and Lime

If you can’t get pure chile powder (do not use the blend including oregano, cumin and other spices), try Kashmiri chilli powder from India, or a mixture of cayenne pepper (for heat) and paprika (for color). Start with ¼ teaspoon of cayenne to 2 teaspoons paprika, and adjust to your taste. Cayenne pepper is quite hot, so be sure to sample your blend before adding it to the curry paste.

Serves four to six people

Ingredients for the curry paste:
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon pure chile powder (or a blend of ¼ teaspoon cayenne and 2 teaspoons paprika ), or to taste
½ teaspoon kosher or other coarse salt
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1-1/2 tablespoons fresh ginger (young, if you can get it), peeled and chopped

Ingredients for the curry:
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 4-inch stick Indonesian cassia, broken in half
1-1/2 cups onion, diced small
2 cups coconut milk
3 cups Kabocha, butternut or other sweet fall squash, peeled and cut into ½ inch cubes
1-1/2 cups Corolla or other small potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
1-1/2 cups Asian eggplant, quartered lengthwise and cut into ¼-inch slices
1 or more cups chicken or vegetable broth, to thin the curry
1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste
1-1/2 tablespoons fish sauce, or to taste
Zest of one lime
2 tablespoons lime juice, or to taste
¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves, finally chopped
¼ cup fresh Thai or other basil leaves, finely chopped

Garnish:
Sprigs of Thai or other basil

Method for the curry paste:
1. Heat a small dry cast iron skillet over a medium flame. Add the coriander seeds and toast until fragrant and lightly browned. Remove immediately and pour onto a plate to cool.
2. Turn the heat to low and add the cumin seeds. Toast briefly until fragrant and lightly browned. (Do not let them burn, or they will taste bitter.) Remove and pour onto a plate to cool.
3. Pulverize the coriander and cumin seeds in a grinder. In a small bowl, combine them with the ground white pepper and chile powder, and set aside.
4. In a mortar and pestle, smash the garlic with the salt until it makes a smooth paste. Add the chopped ginger and pound into the paste. Add the dry ingredients and pound until the paste is smooth. Set aside.

Method for the curry:
1. In a large saucepan, heat the canola oil over medium heat. When it is warm add the cassia stick and the onions and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, until the onions have softened and the cassia has begun to release its fragrance. Add the curry paste and sauté for about 3 minutes, lowering the heat if necessary. Do not let it burn.
2. Add the coconut milk and 1 cup of broth, and stir well to combine. Add the squash, potatoes and eggplant, and stir. Bring to a gentle simmer and cover. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the vegetables are cooked all the way through. Check the curry several times while it is simmering. If it begins to thicken too much—a little liquid is desirable—add broth as needed.

To finish the curry:
1. One by one stir in the remaining ingredients, tasting after each addition: sugar, fish sauce, lime zest and lime juice. The idea is to bring all the flavors—hot, sour, salty, sweet—into balance. (Do not omit the fish sauce as it will also add a touch of umami , rounding out the flavors of the curry.) When all have been added, taste again and adjust the seasonings. Stir in the chopped cilantro and basil leaves.
2. Garnish with sprigs of Thai or other basil and serve with basmati rice. You could also make the curry early in the day and reheat, or refrigerate overnight and reheat before serving. If you reheat the curry, you will probably need to add a cup or more of broth to thin the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary.