SpiceLines

On occasion Ray brings us some of the bounty from his own burgeoning garden. Today there were five pounds of tender yellow squash, just a soupcon of what I imagine is flourishing at his house.

We compared recipes. “I fry it,” said Ray. “The wife and the kids, they like it cut thin in circles. We put flour in a bag and let the kids shake it up. Doesn’t make any mess that way. Then I fry it in vegetable oil till it gets brown.” He grinned. "It’s about the only way the wife will eat squash.”

Naturally I was thinking of something a bit more complicated—squash, corn, onion, basil and thyme from the garden, butter. “Squash stew,” said Ray. Um, not exactly.

But after he left, I couldn’t stop thinking about fried squash. And rosemary. I was standing right next to one of our own monstrous bushes and its fragrant tentacles were waving right in front of my nose. The herb’s bright, resinous flavor would be delicious with lemon and a sprinkle of black pepper, I thought.

The method for this recipe is similar to the one for fried green tomatoes; it works best with large, overgrown squash, sliced into rounds about 1-1/2 inches at the widest point. A good way to imbue the mild-mannered squash with flavor is to coat the slices in chopped rosemary and lemon before dredging them in flour. Let them rest for a few minutes, then dip in egg and breadcrumbs, and fry.

Serve while the squash is still warm, either as an appetizer or (lucky you) as a main course.

Supper in a bag, indeed.

Fried Summer Squash with Rosemary, Lemon Zest and Black Pepper

Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer or 2 for supper

Ingredients :
2 pounds large yellow crookneck squash, cut into ¼-inch thick rounds, about 1-1/2 inches at the widest point
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons fresh rosemary, very finely chopped
Grated zest from 2 lemons
1-1/2 cups flour
1 egg
2 tablespoons milk
1-1/2 cups breadcrumbs
1/3 or more cup canola oil
Sprigs of fresh rosemary and thinly sliced lemon for garnish

Method:
1. Lay the squash slices on a flat surface and sprinkle generously on both sides with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
2. Set up an assembly line: Combine the rosemary and lemon zest on a plate and mix well. Put the flour into a medium bowl. Add the egg and milk to another bowl and whisk until frothy. Place the breadcrumbs in a third bowl.
3. Press each slice of squash into the rosemary-lemon mixture, so that some of the mixture sticks to each side. Then coat both sides in flour. Shake off the excess. Lay the slices on a plate and let them rest for 3 to 5 minutes. If any of the rosemary-lemon mixture is left over, whisk it into the egg and milk.
4. After a few minutes, dip each squash slice into the egg mixture and then into the breadcrumbs, again taking care to coat each slice on both sides. Lay the squash on a plate and set aside.
5. In a large cast iron frying pan, heat the oil over a medium flame. When it is very hot but not smoking, place 5 or 6 squash slices in the oil. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until brown and crisp. Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Continue with the rest of the squash, adding more oil if necessary. If the oil starts to smoke, reduce the flame. Do not burn the squash.
6. Serve the squash while still warm—but not hot—sprinkled with more sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Garnish with thinly sliced lemon and sprigs of rosemary, if desired.