Recipe: Braised Lamb Breakfast (or Anytime) Tacos with Cumin, Garlic and Lime; Tonali's Perfect Tortillas
Thin, fragile white corn tortillas from Tonali Restaurant make all the difference in these succulent lamb tacos. Instead of starch, you taste the rich flavorful meat and its zingy accompaniments--avocado, red onion, cilantro--all drenched with lime juice.
Sometimes great palates coincide—and then diverge.
Right about the time I was in San Antonio devouring Las Salsas’ divine barbacoa de borrego, John T. Edge seems to have been meandering through Austin’s many breakfast taco joints. He encountered a lot of chorizo, eggs, beans and ham, mostly wrapped in flour tortillas and consumed with, uh, soy milk lattes.
Then he threw down the gauntlet : “When it comes to breakfast tacos, Austin trumps all other American cities.”
In “A Mix of Cultures, All Folded Together,” (The New York Times, March 10, 2010, p. D20), Edge nibbles at the origins of the breakfast taco. Are they Mexican? American? Or both? “Some ingredients , like refried beans and chorizo, taste Mexican….But breakfast tacos may owe as much to the American fast food industry as they do to the taquerias, say, of Guadalajara,” he writes. Edge goes on to define the Austin breakfast taco: “…inspired by Mexico, but not Mexican, a composite food reflecting two cultures.”
Maybe that passes for the real thing in a town where flour tortillas appear to be stuffed with Jimmy Dean sausage--but I doubt it.