SpiceLines

Customers may be wild for “thyme-infused limoncello” and peppery nasturtiums, but Holson notes that flowery flavors—lavender and rose especially—can be overpowering. A drink called “Coming up Roses,” made of rose petals and rose-flavored syrup as well as lime, raspberry rum and champagne, left “the taste of rose syrup clinging to the roof of my mouth like plastic wrap,” she writes. But exact measurements can help. “The chemistry of cocktails sometimes has more in common with the precision of baking than with the throw-it-in-the-pot creativity of a soup or stew,” she says.

When I look at the recipes for these garden elixirs, I’m struck by their complexity. The Marea, served at the New York seafood restaurant of the same name, began with bar manager Fernando Leon’s yen to capture the essence of the ocean in the house drink. After trial and error, he wound up mixing grappa with Acqua di Cedro (a citrus liqueur), passion fruit puree and syrup from wild hibiscus flowers. A single hibiscus flower tucked into a “V shaped glass….unfurled with the rush of alcohol, swaying like the tentacles of a sea anemone in the ocean’s current.”

There are some drinks you just don’t try to make at home.

But hibiscus does happen to be the signature ingredient in one of my favorite summer cocktails. It helps, of course, that I usually order a Hibiscus Petal—or three—at my favorite local watering hole: the dark and sexy bar at The Lantern restaurant. The atmosphere channels Charlie Chan, but with an ironic 21st century vibe—think dim black and red lanterns, a stuffed monkey clambering over gleaming bottles, and a short menu of exotic cocktails with just enough twists to keep you wondering about the ingredients.

The Petal is pretty simple: hibiscus-infused vodka with citrus juices and simple syrup muddled with the anise-scented leaves of Thai basil.

Simple enough, in fact, that you can make it at home. (The basic recipe, which the bartenders freely share, appeared in Food & Wine in 2008.)

The fun part is infusing the vodka with dried hibiscus petals. The dark red blossoms are widely used in Mexico to make agua fresca de Jamaica, a coolly refreshing, non-alcoholic “water” that is often mixed with sugar to balance its acidity. (According to Diana Kennedy, the flowers are also used in Jamaica to make a syrup for rum punches—hence the name.) Packages of dried hibiscus or Jamaica blossoms can be found at Latin and Caribbean grocery stores, on the spice and herb shelf at Whole Foods or on the web at Mex Grocer.

A few days ago I made my own hibiscus vodka. As soon as I poured the alcohol over the dried petals, it turned a brilliant crimson and rapidly deepened to darkest burgundy. Not much happened the first day, but by the next morning the sharpness of the vodka had mellowed and it slowly acquired a light vegetal aroma and tartness of flavor. After 48 hours, I strained out the blossoms and was left with a beautiful dark red vodka with a mild refreshing taste.

I’ve been working on different versions of the Petal all day. The basic recipe is good, but it’s fun to fiddle with the proportions of the citrus or the simple syrup, or even to add a splash of tonic. Personally I like it with more lime and less orange. Just don’t leave out the Thai basil. It adds a light but pungent shot of anise to the lush flavors of the citrus and vodka. Without it, the drink would be a lot less intriguing.

You do have Thai basil in your garden, don't you? No? Then you can get it on line from Import Food.

In the Lantern’s sexy gloom, the Petal glows like a jewel. In brighter light, I have to confess it looks a little like Hawaiian punch. So wait until the sun goes down, light the Moroccan lanterns and fill your cocktail shaker with ice. Drinks in hand, repair to the tropical deck where a sultry breeze is just now ruffling the leaves of the bananas. A huge white luna moth hovers in the lantern light, water burbles in the Chinese ginger pots.

Where are you? Not here, that's for sure.

Hibiscus Petal

This adaptation of the Lantern’s recipe calls for a longer infusion of the vodka, and is a little lighter on the orange juice. Go here to see the original version.

Ingredients for the vodka:

2 cups vodka
1 ounce dried hibiscus flowers

Method for the vodka:

Put the hibiscus petals in a wide-mouthed jar and pour the vodka over them. Cover and store in a cool dark place for 28 to 48 hours, shaking occasionally. When ready, pour the vodka through a very fine strainer into a clean jar or bottle and refrigerate. Discard the hibiscus petals.

Ingredients for one Hibiscus Petal:

5 Thai basil leaves
½ ounce simple syrup
½ ounce lime juice, strained
1 or 2 teaspoons orange juice, strained
1-1/2 to 2 ounces hibiscus infused vodka
1 sprig Thai basil

Method for the Hibiscus Petal:

In the bottom of a cocktail shaker, muddle the 5 Thai basil leaves with the simple syrup and citrus juices. Add hibiscus vodka to taste and fill with ice. Screw on the top and shake vigorously for one minute. Strain into a short glass filled with ice cubes. Garnish with the Thai basil sprig and serve.