SpiceLines

One of the most delectable ways to use vanilla is in preparing seafood—in particular shell fish that is pristinely fresh, sea-sweet and succulent. In Contemporary French Cuisine, chef Olivier Roellinger notes that vanilla’s “warm smooth aroma often rounds off a dish wonderfully.” Lobster with vanilla is a classic, but it is delicious with shrimp and scallops as well.

Roellinger, who runs the Michelin-starred Les Maisons de Bricourt in the village of Cancale on the Brittany coast, warns that one must use vanilla cautiously so that it does not overpower other ingredients. In one of his most intriguing recipes, Queen Scallops with Vanilla Cauliflower Cream, 2 pounds of raw scallops are tossed with just 2 teaspoons of vanilla oil and are briefly cooked when a hot puree of cauliflower seasoned with bird pepper and nutmeg is poured over them.

I love the way he writes about the flavors in this dish. “There is a whiteness that is characteristic of Brittany, in its shellfish and in its vegetables,” he says. “Here they are combined in the warm, sweet intensity of the bewitching vanilla bean. The white florets of the cauliflower…are indistinguishable from coral. It is grown everywhere in the Saint-Malo area where the sea spray comes in to envelop the bulbous white heads. Nothing could be healthier than a light white cauliflower cream for these sweet, white little scallops.”

Roellinger is also an avid sailor and world traveler who is intoxicated by spices. On his website, he has an on-line spice boutique to make you weak with desire. There are vanilla beans from eight different countries, along with 13 singular peppercorns, including La Luna which has been scented with cacao and vanilla to use with cocquilles St. Jacques and poached or roasted fruit. One of the cottages at Les Maisons de Bricourt, which is a Relais & Chateau inn as well as restaurant, is named Graine de Vanille; as the fog rolls in, you can sip Mariage Freres tea in front of a crackling fire while devouring “thick slices of buttered bread, a few little cakes coming out of the oven and maybe even a smooth ice cream…”

Back to reality—and my own kitchen.

This is a delicious “tropical” recipe that makes use of Gerard Vives’ inspired blend of orange zest and vanilla oil. The shrimp are sautéed with garlic, then tossed with the fragrant oil and citrus peel. Small “triangles” of ripe pineapple are quickly sautéed and added to the shrimp. To pull it all together, a touch of fresh sweet orange juice, reduced and swirled with a little butter.

You could serve this with rice, but I really like nestling the shrimp next to a golden brown mashed potato “cake,” itself lightly seasoned with a few drops of vanilla oil.

Tropical Shrimp with Vanilla Oil, Orange Zest and Fresh Pineapple

To serve 4

Ingredients for the mashed potato cakes:

1 pound small russet potatoes, peeled
1 teaspoon vanilla oil
Salt and pepper
Canola oil

Ingredients for the shrimp:

1 pound very fresh, never frozen shrimp, 16-20 count
Salt
2 thin slices of fresh pineapple, each about 3/8- inch thick, core removed
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon garlic, finely chopped
2 teaspoons vanilla oil, or to taste
Zest of one orange
¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice, preferably from Cara Cara oranges
1-1/2 teaspoons butter
Cilantro, finely chopped, for garnish

Method for the potatoes:

1. Put the potatoes in a pot, cover them with cold water, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until they can be pierced with a fork. Drain well. In the same pot, mash the potatoes with a potato masher until they are smooth and free of lumps. Blend in the vanilla oil and season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Form the potatoes into four small, round cakes, about ½ inch thick, and set aside on a plate.
3. When you are about ready to cook the shrimp, first heat a cast iron skillet over medium heat and add 2 tablespoons of canola oil. When it is hot, but not smoking, carefully place the potato cakes in the pan. I say carefully, because the cakes are fragile and the edges can easily fall apart. Cook them for about 4 minutes per side, until they are golden brown. If necessary, lower the heat to keep them from browning too quickly; add another tablespoon of canola oil if needed.
4. Remove from the heat, cover and keep warm while you cook the shrimp.

Method for the Shrimp:

1. Peel and devein the shrimp. Rinse well under cold running water. Put the shrimp in a large bowl, sprinkle with 2 to 3 teaspoons of salt and cover with cold water. Swish the shrimp vigorously with your fingers to remove the impurities. Drain and repeat. After the second swishing, drain the shrimp, rinse them in fresh cold water, drain again and set aside.
2. Cut each pineapple slice into small triangular pieces and set aside.
3. Heat a large skillet over a medium flame. Add the canola oil. When it is hot, but not smoking, add half the shrimp and garlic. Sauté 1 to 2 minutes per side until they are very lightly golden brown. Remove to a bowl. Repeat with the remaining shrimp.
4. Toss the shrimp with orange zest, 2 teaspoons of vanilla oil, and salt and pepper to taste.
5. In the same skillet, quickly sauté the pineapple triangles, about one minute per side, just enough to heat them through. Toss with the shrimp and taste. If desired, you can add a little more vanilla oil at this point.
6. Lower the heat to medium low. In the same skillet, simmer the orange juice until it reduces slightly. Swirl in the butter. Return the shrimp and pineapple to the skillet, stirring so that both are coated with the sauce. Heat very briefly.
7. To serve, place one potato cake on each plate. Place 4 or 5 shrimp to one side of the potato, sprinkle with a little chopped cilantro and serve at once.