SpiceLines

Winter is prime time for oranges, lemons and limes, but it’s also the moment to indulge in some of the more exotic citrus varieties that are only around for a short while. You know about clementines, of course, but what about fresh Satsuma mandarins or the octopus-like Buddha’s hand?

All citrus fruits are rich in antioxidants. They’re packed with Vitamin C, of course, making them a bulwark against winter colds and flu, but they’re also full of cancer-fighting, cholesterol-lowering limonoids. There’s no sodium or fat, but lots of fiber, potassium, folic acid—go here for the full scoop. And, fellow dieters, a medium-sized orange boasts a mere 60 to 80 calories, a spoonful of lemon juice about 4 calories.

Really what’s not to love?

Anyway, I went shopping. Here’s what I brought home:

Meyer lemons: The juice of the Meyer is mild-mannered, but oh that sweet, wildly fragrant peel! According to John Train, author of The Orange: Golden Joy, it comes from China, the result of a spontaneous cross between a lemon and a sweet orange. It got its name from plant explorer Frank Meyer who brought it to America in 1908.

Most of the Meyer’s flavor is in the tender, edible peel. I plan to try pastry chef Claudia Fleming’s recipe for lemon confit in The Last Course, using thinly sliced Meyer lemons cooked in simple syrup as a topping for plain pound cake. But I’ll save a few to make beautifully perfumed Moroccan preserved lemons. There are lots of ways to use the fragrant zest: Grate it into lemon curd or add thin strips to crunchy, lightly steamed green beans and sliced sweet red pepper tossed in fruity olive oil.

Want more? See The Los Angeles Times for “100 Things to do with a Meyer Lemon.” Is it really winter outside?

Buddha’s Hand: I adore the long pointy fingers that slowly unfurl as this peculiar citrus fruit matures. In Asia, where it symbolizes happiness and long life, the Buddha’s hand is sometimes used to perfume a room. Right now, mine is on a table next to a small pot of purple hyacinths, and the mingled fragrances—sultry with a dash of bright lemon--are ravishing.

This exotic fruit has no juice or pulp, but the rind can be used to flavor vodka--see whiteonricecouple.com for a recipe and fun photos. You could grate the peel over potatoes cooked with garlic and basil, or into lemon curd—but why not just enjoy this curious citron for its unusual appearance. It will last about 10 days in a cool room.

Texas Ruby Red Grapefruit: Grown in the mild temperatures of the Rio Grande valley, this is the most luscious and--with its rosy skin and dark pink flesh—surely the prettiest grapefruit around. The icy cold juice is eye-opening: sweet and tart with hint of bitterness. For a real energy booster, blend it with fresh pomegranate and ginger juice.

Grapefruit and avocado salad is an old classic. For a light supper, add thinly sliced onion and toss in a white balsamic vinaigrette. You won’t feel deprived. (B likes this with a spoonful of hot tomato chutney.)

Blood oranges: This ancient citrus with dark crimson flesh probably originated in Sicily. There are many varieties—the Moro, Tarocco and Sanguinello are the most widely grown—each with a slightly different flavor. Ruddy skinned Moros are quite sweet and they taste deliciously of raspberries. But all are imbued with beneficial anthocyanins, powerful antioxidant flavenoids that give the pulp its vermilion hue.

I could drink gallons of the luscious red juice, but I’ll save a little for a rich blood orange tart. It also makes an exotic cardamom-scented sorbet.

Key Limes: The tiny key lime is completely different from the big green, sometimes juiceless Persian lime sold year round. It is very small, with skin that turns yellow when it’s fully ripe. The juice is super-tart and it may take quite a few to get the requisite half-cup for key lime pie.

This is the “Mexican” lime that is often used to brighten fresh salsas and marinades. To banish the winter blahs, toss chopped cherry tomatoes, onion, garlic, and cilantro with key lime juice and a touch of olive oil, and serve with grilled beef or chicken fajitas, or with homemade tortilla chips. Or try your hand at key lime pie: I especially like Aliza Green’s tropical recipe for Key Lime Meringue Pie with Coconut-Cashew Crust in her reference book, Starting with Ingredients.

Mandarin Oranges: Most of the year, mandarin oranges come out of a can. But for a few glorious weeks, bins are piled with fresh mandarins, often with green leaves attached. Pebbly skinned, shaped like large fat teardrops, mandarins can be easily peeled. The delicate flesh is sectioned like a tangerine or clementine. When ripe, it is divinely sweet: Eat these lovely oranges out of hand, or add them to a winter salad of bitter radicchio, endive and arugula in a citrus vinaigrette.

Satsuma mandarins originated in Japan, where two studies have suggested that the fruit lowers the risk of liver disease, diabetes and hardening of the arteries. (The orange hue comes from antioxidant caretentoids.) Another study showed that mandarin oranges grown in Placer County, California contain more natural synephrine, an antihistamine, than drugstore counterparts.

I should add that the most exquisite flavored olive oil in my pantry is scented with mandarin oranges.

As I said, what’s not to love?