SpiceLines

Still, you must admit that butternut squash has many virtues. It is actually a winter fruit, in season now, and it is an excellent keeper—good for at least a few months in a cool pantry. Its orange flesh cooks quickly in broth or in the oven, it makes a velvety puree, and its bland, sweet flavor offers a tempting canvas for creative cooks. It’s full of vitamins, including beta carotene, and 1 cup of the cubed squash packs only 75 calories. Really, what’s not to like?

You know where this is going. Last night I succumbed to the plaintive call of a handsome butternut squash that had been languishing in the pantry since, um, August. Yes, I made soup and it was delicious. This one combined the sweetness of the squash and the fruity aroma of grated orange zest with the savory flavors of thinly sliced Serrano ham and hot, smoky Spanish paprika. Freshly ground white peppercorns added a musky warmth to the mix. It was a global soup, drawing on disparate tastes from Spain, Asia and home sweet home.

The secret ingredient, the one that pulled it all together, was a little stick of Ceylon cinnamon. True cinnamon is so subtle that its presence in the soup was a mere whisper, but it worked magic behind the scenes, balancing the natural sweetness of the squash and the citrus with the salty ham, the smoky paprika and the spicy peppercorns. Its astringency kept all the sweet stuff from getting out of hand as it pulled the many savory ingredients into a harmonious blend.

This soup is easy enough to make on a weeknight when you might serve it with a green salad and slices of crusty baguette grilled with olive oil, but it could also serve as an elegant first course for Thanksgiving dinner.

Butternut Squash Soup with Ceylon Cinnamon, Smoky Paprika and Orange Zest

To serve four

Ingredients:

1 cup finely chopped onion
2 cloves finely chopped garlic
A 2-inch stick of Ceylon cinnamon (see note)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1-3/4 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded and chopped
3 cups chicken stock (preferably homemade)
1-1/2 cups dry white wine
Sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground white pepper, to taste
1 small orange
2 ounces Serrano ham, or prosciutto di parma, thinly sliced and shredded
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
½ teaspoon pimenton de la vera, or hot, smoky Spanish paprika (see note)

Method:

1. In a large saucepan, sauté the onions, garlic and cinnamon stick in the olive oil for 4 to 5 minutes over medium heat, until the vegetables have softened and the cinnamon has released its flavor.
2. Add the squash and sauté for 7 to 8 minutes, or until it has begun to soften.
3. Add the chicken stock and white wine and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until the squash is very tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
4. Ladle the soup mixture into a blender, in two batches if necessary, and whirr until it is very smooth and creamy.
5. Return to the saucepan over low heat. Add salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste and stir well.
6. Run a microplane over the surface of the orange once or twice and stir the grated zest into the soup. Do not add too much. There should be just a whisper of orange flavor.
7. Ladle the soup into individual bowls. Top with thin shreds of ham and chives, and sprinkle with Spanish paprika. Serve at once.

Note: Order Ceylon cinnamon sticks from Penzeys or Savory Spice Shop. You may also find it as canela or “Mexican” cinnamon in Hispanic grocery stores or in the international section of your supermarket. Pimenton de la vera, smoky Spanish paprika, can be found at The Spanish Table. I use the El Rey brand, which comes in hot, sweet and bittersweet.