Briny shrimp, coated in crushed red peppercorns, sauteed with ginger and garlic
then tossed with walnuts and clementines, offer a medley of sweet spicy flavors.
First, you have to use the real thing.
Not the “pink” imposters, but true Indian red peppercorns, left on the vine to soak up the warmth of the sun until they turn golden with a russet tinge. You can’t imagine the flavor of these fat, round peppercorns until you actually taste them: sweet and fruity, with a gentle, lingering fire.
At the moment you can get Poabs Organic Red Peppercorns, grown on a biodynamic estate in the Nelliampathy Hills in Kerala, from Chelsea Market Baskets. Protected by double-sealed tins, these freeze-dried peppercorns have a “use by” date of 2009.
That’s a good thing, since these rare peppercorns are about to get rarer. According to Hindu Business Wire, the Kerala forest department took over the estate last year, on the grounds that Poabs owners had signed onto an existing 99-year lease which expired in 2007. With 351 acres under cultivation, Poabs is (or was) one of the world’s largest biodynamic farms and its premium Demeter-certified coffee beans and organic spices are avidly sought by foreign buyers in Germany, the U.S. and Japan. No word, yet, on the fate of the 2008 crops.
One of the most delicious ways to use true red peppercorns is with fresh (that means never frozen) shrimp sautéed with clementines, ginger and garlic, then tossed with toasted walnuts and scallions. The sweetness of the briny shrimp and the sun-ripened peppercorns is underscored by the flavor of the citrus, while the pungency of the ginger plays off the peppery crushed spice. Toasted walnuts add crunch and a touch of richness.
So here’s my recommendation for February 14: Put Gotan Project’s impossibly romantic La Revancha del Tango on the iPod, open a bottle of champagne and serve these spicy shrimp with red peppercorns to your Valentine. Magic will out.
Shrimp with True Red Peppercorns, Clementines and Toasted Walnuts
To Serve 2
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon true red peppercorns
2/3 pound fresh, large shrimp
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 cup walnut halves or pieces
1-1/2 clementines (about xx sections)
1 tablespoon olive oil, or more as needed
1 inch fresh ginger, peeled, thinly sliced, and finely slivered
2 teaspoons garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup red onion, very thinly sliced
2 scallions, green tops cut into 1-inch lengths and slivered
Sea salt, to taste
Method:
1. In a mortar and pestle, gently crush the red peppercorns to a medium grind. (If you do not have a mortar and pestle, put the peppercorns in a zip-lock bag and lightly crush them with a hammer or a rolling pin.) Set aside.
2. Peel and devein the shrimp. In a medium bowl, sprinkle them with one teaspoon salt. Cover with cold water, swish for 15 seconds and drain. (This removes impurities and also firms the texture of the shrimp.) Repeat with the second teaspoon salt. Rinse with cold water and drain the shrimp in a colander. Lay them out on paper towels and pat dry.
3. In a medium bowl combine the crushed red peppercorns and the shrimp, making sure that the shrimp are well-coated on all sides. Set aside.
4. Heat a small cast iron frying pan over a medium-low flame. When it is hot, add the walnuts and toast, turning frequently, until they are heated through and have begun to change color. Lower the heat if necessary: Do not let them burn. Remove from the pan and spread nuts on a plate to cool. If using walnut halves, break each half into several pieces.
5. Peel the clementines and separate into individual pieces. Remove any clinging white strands.
6. When you are ready to cook, heat a large skillet over a medium flame and add the olive oil. Add the clementine sections and sauté gently for no more than 1 to 2 minutes. Do not overcook or let them burn, or they will disintegrate. Remove immediately and set aside in a small bowl.
7. Add the ginger, garlic and onion to the pan, with a little more olive oil if necessary. Saute for about 1 minute. Add the shrimp, in two batches if necessary, and sauté, turning once, until they are pink—3 to 4 minutes.
8. Return all the shrimp to the skillet, along with the clementines, scallions and toasted walnuts. Lower the heat, toss gently and warm for 1 minute more. Taste for seasoning and add sea salt if desired.
9. Remove and serve at once, with basmati rice and a salad of Boston lettuce lightly dressed with olive oil and white balsamic vinegar.