Jalapenos, pickled like French cornichons with anise-scented tarragon and black
and white peppercorns, make a zesty accompaniment for rich pates and rillettes.
I really like the crunchiness of cornichons.
But even though these tiny French gherkins are soused in white wine vinegar and steeped with fragrant tarragon and peppercorns, they lack a certain…something. Let’s call it zing. And zing would come in handy when you’re using them to perk up an unctuous duck liver pate or fatty pork rillettes.
That’s where jalapenos come in.
Six weeks ago I was wallowing in jalapenos. I had bowls and bowls of them. The three bushes in the herb garden were so heavily laden that I couldn’t see the leaves for the dangling peppers. With abundance, came profligacy. Besides chopping them into and over everything we ate—there’s nothing like a spicy jalapeno to add a kick to sautéed tofu---I made three kinds of pickles for the larder.
And now the verdict is in. B ate the entire jar of sweet and sour Indian pickle with jalapenos, cauliflower, string beans and carrots, but it didn’t do much for me. I expected to love Mexican-style jalapenos pickled in sharp vinegar with lots of herbs and spices. But they were mainly just sour. (For the next batch I diluted the brine. See the recipe below.)
But it was the third pickle that really soared: Jalapenos, French cornichon-style. Stuffed in a jar with a sprig of anise-scented tarragon, shallot rings and a spoonful of whole allspice mixed with peppercorns, then doused in hot white wine vinegar and sea salt, they were hidden in the back of the refrigerator to cure for six weeks. Yesterday, they emerged from the jar crisp and spicy, with the taste and aroma of a traditional French cornichon. In a word, delectable.
Like the squirrels running rampant all over the garden, I’ve been frenziedly stuffing the larder for winter. So yesterday when I picked the last of the chiles, I made a bigger jar of French Twist Jalapenos. If you make them—and fresh jalapenos are available in the markets almost year round—here are a few tips.
1. Wedge the chiles firmly into the jar, so they don’t float to the top when you add the vinegar. This will be easier if they still have their stiff curly stems, so if the stems are attached, leave them on. In any event, you can stuff smaller jalapenos into any empty spaces to hold them firmly in place.
2. Use white sea salt. The first time I made these pickles, I used grey sel de guerande—and the brine was as murky as a mud flat. This time I used a creamy sea salt from the coast of Oaxaca state in Mexico—a bow to the jalapeno’s country of origin—but any white sea salt will do. The brine stayed clear and clean.
3. Leave the pickles in the refrigerator for six weeks. They’ll emerge from the jar still crunchy, perfumed with tarragon, with a burst of lively heat.
Later on when the chill winds blow, you can warm up with a glass of red wine, a slice of rich country pate and a little green firecracker alongside. No fireplace required.
French Twist: Jalapenos in White Wine Vinegar with Tarragon, Allspice and Peppercorns
Makes one 12 ounce jar of pickled jalapenos
Ingredients:
1 or 2 sprigs fresh tarragon
A scant teaspoon each whole allspice, black peppercorns, white peppercorns
1 clove
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
1/4 - pound fresh jalapenos, with stems if possible
1-1/2 cups white wine vinegar
1/4-cup white sea salt
Method:
1. Sterilize a 12-ounce jar and lid in a pot of boiling water to cover for10 minutes. Using tongs, lift the jar and the lid out of the hot water and place them on a clean dishtowel on the kitchen counter.
2. Add the tarragon and the whole allspice, peppercorns and clove to the jar. Layer the jalapenos and sliced shallots, using stems to wedge the peppers in place, to just below the fill line (the extruded line on the jar approximately 1/4-inch below the top of the glass). Don’t skimp on the chiles and stuff smaller ones into any empty spaces to prevent shifting.
3. Bring the vinegar and salt to a boil. Pour the brine, still boiling, into the jar. The liquid should cover the solids--but only just cover them.
4. Wait 1-2 minutes to allow the brine to settle. If necessary, add a little more liquid to cover the tomatoes. Screw on the tops and store for six weeks in the refrigerator.
Mexican Style Jalapenos with Herbs, Garlic, Carrots and Onions
(adapted from Susana Trilling, Seasons of My Heart)
This is a milder pickled jalapeno than you might be used to, since the brine is diluted with water.
Makes one 12 ounce jar of pickled jalapenos
Ingredients:
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1 cup cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1 small bay leaf
5 black peppercorns
1 whole clove
1 tablespoon salt
Pinch of sugar
1/4-pound fresh jalapenos
2 teaspoons olive oil
1/2 medium white onion, sliced thin
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/4 cup carrots, sliced on the diagonal
1/2 cup water
Method:
1. In a pot, bring the first 9 ingredients to a boil over high heat. Reduce and simmer gently for 30 minutes.
2. Cut an “x” at the tip of each jalapeno. Set aside.
3. In a small skillet, heat the oil over low heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until soft, but not brown. Add to the vinegar mixture
4. Add the chiles and 1/2 cup water to the vinegar mixture. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until the vegetables are soft. Pour into a sterilized glass jar (see above) and refrigerate. The pickled jalapenos can be eaten the next day.