A heavy volcanic stone mortar and pestle makes short work of grinding shallots,
ginger, macadamia nuts and other ingredients for a spice paste for jackfruit curry.
I adore the volcanic stone mortar and pestle I got in Singapore, even though crushing spices by hand is so last century.
But that’s precisely why I love it. There’s a lot of primal satisfaction that comes from dashing the heavy stone pestle against unsuspecting peppercorns and chiles reposing in the mortar. The pestle is hefty enough (1.5 pounds) to smash garlic to a paste and very nearly pulverize whole spices like cumin and coriander, while the rough surface of the 7-pound bowl keeps them from leaping out onto the counter. The intoxicating aromas that are released are a side benefit—a kind of spice-perfumed inhalation therapy for the senses.
In today’s Wall Street Journal (“Catalog Critic: Crushing the Competition,” February 16, 2007, p. W8), Shivani Vora writes that Suvir Saran, executive chef at New York’s Devi restaurant, uses a mortar and pestle daily. The reason? Crushing spices creates flavors that are more vivid than in a food processor, and also allows for more control over the texture of a blend.
One caveat: Saran recommends buying a non-porous set: “You don’t want the olive tapenade you’re making today to pick up the taste of the garlic cloves you crushed last week,” he advises. That leaves out the seductive olive wood mortar and pestle I’ve been admiring at Williams Sonoma. Come to think of it, it also leaves out my own volcanic stone set.
The Journal tested five non-porous models, first by smashing coriander seeds, and, second, by making a tasty blend of cilantro, almonds, green chiles, olive oil and salt. Although not impressed by four of the sets—“most lacked the force to pulverize the almonds quickly”—the writer found one exception: the $20.95 Thai Stone Granite mortar and pestle from importfood.com. Rating it “Best Overall and Best Value,” Vora says it took just two minutes to make a smooth paste.
Old-fashioned muscle power combined with a heavy mortar and pestle is indeed the secret to successful grinding. I won’t give up my porous set, however. After each use, I scrub it with a stiff kitchen brush and hot water (never soap) and let it air dry. I haven’t noticed lingering flavors, though admittedly I don’t use it everyday.
Here is a list of the other mortars and pestles that were tested:
Amco Stainless Steel Mortar and Pestle
chefsresource.com ($17.95)
Typhoon 2 in 1 Mortar and Pestle (cast iron)
cooking.com ($25.95)
Mason Cash Mortar and Pestle (ceramic)
bowerykitchens.com ($46.50)
Marble Mortar and Pestle
surlatable.com ($19.95)