Tellicherry peppercorns grown on India's Kerala coast are considered the
world's finest. Larger than other peppercorns, they have a bold, assertive
flavor and a rich, almost intoxicating aroma.
There is no polite way to eat Singapore Black Pepper Crab. It requires all ten fingers, a stack of napkins and a certain abandon. I discovered its incendiary pleasures one moonlit night when I faced a platter of sizzling crustaceans, flame red claws and shells so thickly strewn with cracked black peppercorns that I could scarcely identify what was on the plate. The pungent fragrance that tickled my nose was dark and richly aromatic.
One nibble of a claw and my lips began to tingle. A few more bites and my eyes began watering. My nose streamed, then my mouth caught fire. But I couldn’t stop eating. The searing heat of the black pepper and the sweetness of the succulent crab were irresistible. That night in Singapore explained a lot about why black pepper has long been known as the King of Spices…
What exactly is black pepper? Here are a few quick facts:
Plant Family: Piperaceae
Botanical Name: Piper nigrum
Description: Black peppercorns are the fruit of a tropical vine which flourishes within 15 degrees of the equator, in places where the sun is hot and monsoons bring over 100 inches of rainfall per year. India, Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, and Brazil are the biggest producers, but it is also grown around the world, from Sri Lanka, Thailand and China to Madagascar, Nigeria, Australia and Guatemala.
The vine has shiny, vibrant green, heart-shaped leaves that are deeply veined and have a sweetly aromatic flavor. In late spring, it produces tiny white flowers which develop into spikes of 50 to 100 small green berries that turn yellow and eventually a deep rosy red as they ripen into long, dangling clusters.
Black peppercorns come from berries plucked when they are full size but still green, about six months after flowering. Traditionally they are laid out on woven mats to dry in the hot sun, although some growers now scald the berries in boiling water and dry them in kilns. Either way, heat activates an enzyme in the peppercorn’s outer shell that turns it black or dark brown. At the same time, pungent compounds such as piperine and fragrant essential oils develop, creating pepper’s spicy flavor and aroma.
The Best Peppercorns Are Named After Their Point of Origin:
The finest peppercorns come from India’s Kerala coast, where hot sun, drenching rains and loamy, red “laterite” soil laden with iron and other minerals produce luxuriant vines with vibrantly flavored fruit. There are two named categories of Indian black pepper:
Tellicherry black peppercorns: From India, Kerala, north of Kochi. Premium grade black peppercorns produced from top-size mature berries left on the vine until they begin to turn yellow. Unusually large and round, dark brown to black. Complex, robust flavor. Pungent, almost intoxicating aroma. The pepper of choice for steak au poivre, Singapore black pepper crab and other dishes requiring a bold, assertive flavor.
Malabar black peppercorns: India, Kerala, south of Kochi. The best mass market grade. Smaller than Tellicherry, slightly wrinkled, dark brown. Full-bodied, woody flavor, pungent aroma, plenty of heat. A good everyday pepper to use in salad dressings, on meats, poultry, fish and vegetables, and in spice blends such as ras al hanout and garam masala.
Other black peppercorns from named regions include:
Sarawak black peppercorns: Malaysian Borneo. Small, wrinkled, nearly black peppercorns. Light toasty flavor with fresh green, slightly resinous notes, mild heat and aroma; a delicate pepper. Delicious over pineapple and other tropical fruit; great for baking.
Lampong black peppercorns: Indonesia, island of Sumatra, port of Lampong. Small, dimpled dark brown to black peppercorns. Pleasant, almost fruity taste followed by explosive heat; rich aroma. An unusual pepper, not always available.
You will also find black peppercorns labeled only with the country of origin:
Prolific producers like Vietnam (the world’s biggest exporter) and Brazil are relatively new to the game and the pepper tends to be undistinguished, although Vietnam, in particular, is taking steps to improve its production methods. Australian black peppercorns, grown in Queensland, tend to be small, quite fragrant and not too hot.
For more on black peppercorns, see The Spice and Herb Bible by Australian spice merchant, Ian Hemphill; Gernot Katzer's Spice Pages, and the Fall 2004 issue of SpiceLines newsletter, Black Pepper: The King of Spices.