(Adapted from Silvia Lagunes Troncaso)
According to The Wall Street Journal, the chipotle has had its 15 minutes of fame. (See“The Next Big Flavor,” Katy McLaughlin, Saturday-Sunday, April 29-30, 2006, pp. 1, 6). The smoky tasting chile Is now so mainstream—it’s everywhere, from Applebee’s Tortilla Chicken Melt quesadilla with chipotle-roasted chicken to the Chipotle Mexican Grill (500 stores in 20 states)--that its allure has faded. Adventurous chefs have turned their sights on more exotic flavors such as tamarind, guava and even leather.
But what is a chipotle exactly? The chipotle chile begins life as a ripe red jalapeno pepper, which is smoked and dried until it shrivels and turns dark brown. Although it is sometimes pickled, in Mexican cooking the chipotle is usually added to salsas, soups and stews both for its heat and for the subtle smoky flavor it imparts. On the Scoville scale, it measures 15,000 units which puts it in the medium range: hot enough to sear your tongue, but not to blister it.
Even if trendy chefs are moving on, the chipotle is a staple of Mexican cookery, especially in Veracruz where a simple salsa is found on most restaurant tables. Usually chipotles and cloves of garlic are sautéed in hot oil, then whirred in a blender with a little water until the sauce is smooth. The salsa can be fiery, especially if the seeds have not been removed. However, it can be tamed by adding a little tomato sauce, or even mayonnaise: It makes a luscious dip for fried seafood.
One day Silvia, our guide to all things delicious in Veracruz, showed us how to make one of the region’s classic dishes: camarones enchipotladas or shrimp with chipotle sauce. In her version, enormous Gulf shrimp are simmered with salsa de chipotle and a few aguacatillo leaves from the wild avocado, which add a touch of anise-like flavor. (We’ve substituted a pinch of ground anise seed.) The smoky heat of the sauce is a perfect counterpoint to the sweetness of the fresh shrimp.
Sylvia recommends cooking the shrimp in a cazuela de barro, or earthenware casserole, to give it a “special flavor.”’ Like the aguacatillo leaves, the shallow, thick-walled cazuelas are hard to find in the U.S., though they can be had for about 60 pesos in Veracruz’s central market. Do not despair: The shrimp are nearly as good cooked in a skillet.
To serve 4
Ingredients for the chipotle sauce:
5 dried chipotle chiles (see note)
2 large garlic cloves
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup water
Salt to taste
Ingredients for the shrimp:
16 jumbo shrimp, or 1-1/2 pounds of large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 tablespoon garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon chipotle sauce, or to taste
1/4 cup canned tomato sauce, or to taste
Pinch of ground anise seed
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1. For the sauce: In a saucepan, gently sauté the garlic in olive oil over a medium flame until it is golden brown. Remove and set aside. Saute the chipotles, one at a time, until they are crispy, and immediately remove from the pan. Do not let them burn-- lower the heat if necessary. If they turn black, the sauce will be bitter.
2. Remove the pan from the heat. Pour in a cup of water. Return the chiles and garlic to the pan, place it back on the heat and simmer until the chipotles and garlic are soft.
3. Pour the mixture into a blender and whirr until the sauce is very smooth. Pour into a bowl, add salt to taste and set aside.
4. For the shrimp: Heat the olive oil in a large non-reactive skillet. Add the garlic and cook for 15 seconds, stirring, then add the shrimp and sauté until they are pink all over, but not cooked through. Do this in two batches if necessary.
5. Mix one tablespoon chipotle sauce with 1/4 cup canned tomato sauce. Add the mixture to the shrimp and stir until well coated. Taste and correct seasonings, adding more chipotle or tomato, as well as salt and pepper, if desired. Add a pinch of ground anise and simmer gently until the shrimp are cooked through.
6. Serve the shrimp with rice and, on the side, slices of ripe, buttery avocado.
Note: Dried chipotles are widely available in Hispanic grocery stores and sometimes in the produce or international section of large supermarkets. They can also be ordered from www.penzeys.com.