SpiceLines

(adapted from Maria Elena Serena, Coatepec)

In Coatepec, Dona Elena pours chicken stock into a light, tropical mole made
of guajillo chiles and sweet, ripe pineapple, peaches, pears and apples.

In her last post, Claire was recovering from a shock by making manchamanteles. It is a luscious tropical mole, or sauce, which, in this version, consists of little more than spicy chiles, charred tomatoes and sweet, ripe fruit with a touch of Ceylon cinnamon. Manchamanteles literally means “tablecloth stainer;” you will understand once you see its brick red color.

Guajillos are dark red, smooth-skinned dried chiles. They are long and narrow, tapering to a point at one end, and have a slightly fruity flavor. The Scoville scale, which measures the capsaicin content of chiles, puts the guajillo in the 2 to 4 range which makes it warm and spicy, but not too hot--an ideal complement to the sweet fruit.

For the best flavor, try to buy “fresh” guajillo chiles—even though they are dried, they should be soft and supple. When frying, do not let them burn or turn black—if you do, the mole will be bitter. That means gently sautéing them just until the inner surface turns a light golden brown. This will happen very quickly, so it is best to fry the chiles one at a time.

The spice most of us call “cinnamon” is actually a close cousin known as cassia. Mexican recipes traditionally use Ceylon or “true cinnamon” which is grown in Sri Lanka. It is light brown in color, with layers of crumbly, soft bark rolled into concentric layers. Its flavor and aroma are less pungent than cassia and far more complex: sweet. warm and woody with whispers of clove and citrus. (For more on Cinnamon, including recipes and an interview with Susana Trilling, see SpiceLines newsletter at www.globalprovince.com/spicelines/index.htm.)

This recipe is adapted from Maria Elena Serena, a superb cook who invited us into her home in Coatepec, Mexico for a wonderful cena and cooking lesson. Dona Elena is very health conscious, so she has substituted canola oil for the lard that might ordinarily be used in making manchamanteles. Traditionally, this mole is served over the boiled chicken from which the chicken stock has been made “The sugar and the protein are very good for energy,” she told us.

The mole is also delicious with grilled pork loin, chicken or duck breasts. Claire has been known to eat it right out of the pot.

To serve four:

Ingredients for the chile mixture:

1/4 pound guajillo chiles (see note)
4 to 6 tablespoons of canola oil
1 medium onion, sliced thin
5 garlic cloves, sliced thin
4 large plum tomatoes
A one-inch piece of Ceylon cinnamon (see note)
1 pinch ground black pepper
1 to 2 cups rich chicken stock, preferably homemade from a whole cut up chicken cooked with onion and garlic (reserve the chicken pieces)

Additional Ingredients for the mole:

3 tablespoons canola oil
2 apples, peeled and cored, cut into medium dice
2 firm, ripe medium peaches, peeled and cut into medium dice
2 firm, ripe medium pears, peeled and cut into medium dice
3 cups pineapple, cut into medium dice
1 to 2 cups rich chicken stock
Salt to taste

Reserved chicken from the stock

Method for the chile mixture:

1. Wipe the chiles clean with a damp cloth. Using kitchen scissors, snip off the stem and cut vertically down one side of each chile. Open it up flat and remove the seeds and membranes. Repeat with the other chiles.
2. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a medium skillet over a medium flame. When the oil is hot, reduce the heat to low and lightly sauté the chiles, one at a time, for a few seconds on each side. The best way to do this is to open up each chile and flatten it before putting it in the oil. Saute very gently until the inner surface turns a light golden brown. Do not let outer surface turn black, or the chile mixture will taste bitter. If necessary, lower the heat and add one or two more tablespoons of canola oil to the pan.
3. When all the chiles have been sautéed, put them in a large bowl and pour very hot water over them to cover. Set aside to soften.
4. In the same oil as the chiles, saute the sliced onion until it is golden brown. If necessary, add another tablespoon of oil. Remove and set aside. Add the sliced garlic cloves to the pan and sauté until golden. Remove and set aside.
5. Heat a cast iron griddle or skillet over a medium high flame. When it is hot, sear the plum tomatoes until the skin blackens and begins to peel. Remove, chop coarsely and set aside.
6. When the chiles are soft, drain them in a colander. Tear the chiles into pieces and place them in the blender. Add the sautéed, onions, garlic, tomatoes, cinnamon, black pepper and 1 cup of chicken stock. Whirr until the mixture is smooth, adding a little more stock if necessary.
7. Even after blending, the chile mixture will probably contain bits of chile and tomato skin and small pieces of cinnamon. To remove them, pass the mixture through a food mill set into a large bowl.

Method for the mole:

1. Place a large, non-reactive skillet over a medium flame and add 3 tablespoons of oil. Add the chile mixture. When it begins to bubble, add the fruit. When it bubbles again, add some chicken stock. Begin with one cup: the mole should be liquid, but not watery. It will thicken slightly as it cooks.
2. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 20 minutes, or until the fruit is soft. Remove from the heat and add salt to taste.
3. To serve: Arrange the reserved pieces of chicken in a shallow bowl and pour the warm mole sauce over them. Serve with rice and a light green salad.
4. Other options: The mole is delicious over plain grilled pork loin or chops, grilled chicken, or grilled duck breasts.

Note: Whole dried guajillo chiles and sticks of Ceylon cinnamon can be found in Hispanic food markets and in the international section of some supermarkets. On the web, both can be ordered from www.penzeys.com.